I have to say, I’m not a huge fan of gourmande scents. If I have to choose between starter and dessert I’m a “chicken satay/prawn dumplings/soup of the day” kind of girl and the same goes for my perfume choices. I wrote a piece recently for the scented letter on my love for salty accords in scent, and although I’m not averse to the occasional sweet floral fragrance or four, the sugar rush a gourmande brings is borderline nauseating.
Or so I thought, until Juliette Has A Gun’s latest concoction was sent to me. The yellow and white bottle is as chip and cheery as an Easter chick. The contents inside are like the olfactory equivalent of a Ladurée macaroon as opposed to a slab of chocolate cake i.e. sweet and delicate enough without being overly sickly.
As well as the vanilla absolute, there are whispers of sandalwood and jasmine sambac as well as creamy iris butter. You might have to work a little harder to detect them, but in fact your olfactory nerves are more engaged when the brain is trying to work out what it’s in the process of smelling. So when you wear it, you’ll smell it more, if that makes sense…
It kind of reminds me of those scented Cupcake Surprise Dolls I used to play with as a kid. If you grew up in the 90s, you’ll know the ones I mean- their hats looked like swirls of sprinkle-topped icing and their skirts were made of pleated rubber, which if you rolled up over the doll (they had no legs, FYI) it met with the hat to form said “cupcake”. Clever stuff. Anyway, these dolls had a soft, confectionary scent which as a child I was absolutely addicted to - having had such a doll of my own.
She was bought from a school jumble sale – her hat was missing, but her scent was still there, just about. Hence I used to hold her to my nose and sniff away at her like glue (to the bemusement of others). Obviously M. Ricci’s version is far more sophisticated than my little doll’s “strawberry-flavour” bouquet, but it’s that softness and addictive can’t-quite-get-at-it subtlety that gives “Sunny Side Up” a similar appeal. It’s a great scent if you don’t like anything too cloying, or for spritzing on during a beach holiday when the sweltering temperatures call for something a little more reserved.
Sunny Side Up is £110 for 100ml from Harvey Nichols